In a matter of seconds, it began. Using some unnamed criteria, human pairs were assigned to sleds. I crawled onto ours as my partner stood behind me to drive. And in a flash we were off, gliding through a pristine winter forest behind the pounding feet of 6 Alaskan Huskies.
They had greeted us with a cacophony of barks and howls along with whatever jumping the harnesses allowed. They couldn’t wait to go. And neither could we.
As our group of 8 sleds left the staging area, the remaining dogs let out a chorus of pitiful whines. Don’t worry, dudes, you’ll get a turn soon.
And so began a 10k ride through the enchanted wonderland of Laapland Finland, 160 miles north of the Arctic Circle. The beauty, as we zipped by trees glistening with new fallen snow, was breathtaking. As was the silence, now that the dogs were running.
There isn’t much up there at 68.4 degrees North latitude, except the indigenous Sami people. He’s not a Sami, but the man himself, Santa Claus, also lives there, perhaps because the North Pole is in the middle of an ocean. Or perhaps because reindeer are so plentiful. Less common are elves. If you visit, you’ll easily spot reindeer either in the forest or on the menu.
The temperature was 5 degrees Fahrenheit, but I wasn’t cold even with the wind whipping around. I wouldn’t have been cold at 10 below either, not wearing the supplied snow suit or “snow suite” as pronounced by our European guide. The suit, along with boots heavy enough to skip leg day at the gym, kept me plenty warm. Of course, my warmth was enhanced by the 15 minutes of body contortions required to don the apparel.
The sled itself was just some wood planks covered by a reindeer skin. Certainly Santa had an upgraded model. Ours wouldn’t have held even one bag of toys.
Our 2 lead dogs were intelligent and calm, setting the pace. The last 2 dogs were the strongest. And the middle two, well, they were quite the characters, as they turned to bark at us whenever we stepped on the brake as if to say, “Can’t you drive?” They turned and barked again when they wanted us to help push uphill.
The dogs were talented in other ways, too, in that they could do their business while running full speed. We were warned that the poop can fly up and hit you in the face. Fortunately, we could slow the sled when we saw the tell-tale rounded back of a dog in need. Still, with our 6 dogs plus the others ahead pooping at will, it made for a very, uh, aromatic ride.
When I was driving, I had a moment of panic when the sled rolled up the bank of the trail, sure we were going to turn over. But the dogs had it under control. In order to slow down, I had to put my full weight on the brake. Otherwise, the dogs were not stopping, regardless of what was ahead.
It was easy to forget how remote Laapland actually was. Perhaps I was lulled by the resort with its glass-roofed cabins and individual servings of tiramisu. But make no mistake, this was one of the most remote places on earth. The nearest hospital was a 3 hour drive. Kids must stay overnight to attend school, where they are taught reindeer herding and snowmobile repair.
Back at the staging area, the dogs rolled joyfully in the snow. As I thanked them for their effort with some well-earned scratches, I wondered how this country with its extreme cold and lack of sunlight, could rate as the World’s Happiest. Certainly, the social safety net and financial security were a big part. But perhaps the dogs had an answer as well. They found happiness in the small moments, in being outside, in trusting in the team, in a job well done. Lessons, perhaps, that we all could learn.
Everything about this Finnish wonderland was spectacular. Visiting a sauna and then plunging in the Baltic Sea; Walking among a herd of reindeer; Snow showing in the twilight; Chasing the Northern Lights.
But of all these experiences, dog sledding was the highlight. If you get a chance, don’t hesitate to take it. Just dress warmly and watch out for flying poop.